I am in my last meeting of the day but I feel nervous. My colleagues are eating too slow, and I can’t seem to enjoy my tuna steak. I have a special kind of feeling in my body. As soon as this dinner is over I’ll be running to my already packed car and driving to my mates house to pick him up. We’re about to set off on a 12 hours driving mission to France. A couple of days ago I spotted an incoming 6-9 foot swell with a swell period of 15+ seconds. So my mate and I decided to pull an ‘allnighter’ on this roadtrip to Brittany to score a couple of sessions before we both need to go back to work. Does that sounds crazy? Perhaps for normal human beings, but not for those infected with the surf virus. You guys get it right? Totally worth it!
Photo: Tommy Janssen
Can’t help but feeling stoked after our first session
Locals are always right
Ok, the windows could use some cleaning, but how about that sign?! All the local shops we’re closed due to epic conditions. Now that’s good store policy.
As part of any good road trip you will come across uncharted territories. This means you might have to drive around a little bit in order to find some waves. Sometimes you find a beautiful empty bay that resembles a lake.
First row seats
After our arms were completely destroyed and our bodies were overcome with satisfaction we just chilled in the sun on the rocks and watched the local heroes in action.
After some of the best sessions of the year, and maybe even of my life, it was time to head home. Twelve hours of driving back to reality. For most of the time though we just sat in the car still mindsurfing that beautiful bay in Brittany. Was this real? Did this really happen? It went by so fast, as if we never left home. But it sure was worth it.
As I’m writing this, I’m looking at yet another blip on the surf radar….should I?……